Northwestern New Mexico is a great place for exploring. It’s good to have a decent New Mexico Atlas to use in this area, because some of the best spots are on Indian land, and may not show up on a regular map.
One of my favorite places to camp in this area is Heron Lake. It’s a New Mexico State Park with lots of camping on the many coves of this no-wake lake. The sites are terraced and scattered in such a way that you can get a good bit of privacy, even when it is crowded. This New Mexico campground is a great place to take in astronomical events, like an eclipse or meteor shower. The no-wake regulations keep things peaceful, so you won’t be subjected to the rowdy drone of powerboats all night long. The main attraction here is sailing. Yes, it’s true, sailing in New Mexico. Another point of interest is the Rio Chama Trail, a 5-mile hike that connects Heron Lake State Park to another New Mexico State Park, El Vado.
As you head deeper into Heron Lake State Park, past El Vado Dam, and Stone House Lodge, the road turns to dirt so use a Benchmark map and be sure you’ve got a good idea of where you are going, the rest of this journey takes you through a remote part of the Jicarilla Apache Reservation.
After El Vado Lake, head north on Jicarilla Apache Road J8. On this road you will see another lake on your New Mexico map, Stinking Lake. It’s not really much of a lake, and I didn’t really smell anything, but the expansive empty nature of this reservation land was worth exploring. J8 winds through some untouched country, past several lakes, where camping and fishing is permitted. Read the faded signs carefully, and obey the tribal rules.
You can also check the Jicarilla Apache website for more info on camping and fishing in this area. Eventually, J8 will return you to paved roads and civilization in Dulce, NM. Although it’s a rural town, it is a hub for the surrounding Indian lands, so you can expect to find a 24-hour gas station, motels and a supermarket.
From Dulce check out your Benchmark Map and head east on Rt. 64, back toward Chama, NM. On top of being a great spot for fly fishing, the biggest draw in Chama is the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. As the eastern terminus of this state-owned railroad, it can get pretty booked in the summer months, so a wise traveler might make a reservation at one of the many hotels/motels that serve families riding the rails. If you are in the area, really a ride on the train is not to be missed. It’s a vintage, coal-fired, narrow gauge trip that takes travelers through the soaring mountain passes between Chama and Antonito, Colorado. The train hosts plenty of special events for kids and families, like a Day Out with Thomas, Peanuts Pumpkin Patch, and the Polar Express, plus moonlight dinner and wine-tasting events, the Cumbres Fiesta trains, and more for the older-than-21 crowd, so check their website to buy tickets and figure out the logistics for your trip!
