The Jemez Mountains are a quick trip from Albuquerque, a quick glance at a New Mexico atlas points you northwest, traveling out of Albuquerque up I-25, then taking Rt. 550 through Bernalillo to the turn off on Rt. 4 at San Ysidro. From there follow the river northward to the mountains.
Outside Bernalillo White Mesa rises in the distance. White Mesa is a BLM outdoor Recreation Area popular with New Mexico mountain bikers, for soft forgiving gypsum sands that give the Mesa its name. Beware out here the landscape can be arid, windy and unforgiving and there’s no water so if you plan to hike or bike, be sure you come prepared.
When you turn off Rt. 550 and on to Rt. 4 at San Ysidro you’re on the Jemez Mountains Scenic Byway. Check your New Mexico Atlas and you’ll find the Jemez Pueblo is a few miles north on Rt. 4. The pueblo itself is no longer open to the public, but there is a roadside vending area where the locals sell fry bread tacos. Things get pretty remote pretty quick in New Mexico, so it’s always good to grab a local snack when you see one. Also make sure you have extra water in the car, as you can get pretty far from anywhere in a hurry. Bringing along a picnic lunch is another good option when planning your road trip. There National Forest Recreation Areas areas like Spanish Queen to stop at along the way. These picnic areas are every few miles on Rt. 4 along the Jemez River and it’s relaxing place to cool off on a hot summer day. Five miles north of the Spanish Queen Picnic Area is the Jemez Ranger Station, top in and get the latest info on this district of the Santa Fe National Forest outdoor recreation area.
Rt. 4 twists and turns heading toward the town of Jemez Springs, as it climbs in altitude the red rocks of the desert give way to lush mountain forests. There’s a bath house in the town center, where you can take a hot spring mineral soak. Walk-ins are welcome, and if there’s a wait, you can take a relaxing walk along the river and visit the original hot spring. For more details on all the hot springs in this area, check out: http://alibi.com/news/39420/Rub-a-Dub-Dub.html.
If hot springs aren’t your thing, you can also check out Soda Dam. This geological feature is hard to miss with its colored calcium deposits and the bubbling soda-fountain bubbles that give it its name.
North of the town of Jemez Springs and Soda Dam, things get more remote. There are lots of campgrounds with amenities of varying degrees in this area. Consult a Benchmark Map and the maps on the Santa Fe National Forest website to find a New Mexico Campground that’s right for you.
If you’re heading out to camp in the area, and don’t forget to stop at Amanda’s General Store at the fork in the road in La Cueva, NM where Rt. 4 and Rt. 126 meet. Here locals will give fishing advice, and in the cooler months they can let you know you if the gate is open on Forest Service Road #376 heading up to San Antonio Hot Springs.
If you’re not equipped for camping, you can bunk up at the La Cueva Lodge adjacent to Amanda’s General Store or continue the scenic drive, on Rt. 4. This route takes travelers east to Bandalier National Monument and the Los Alamos National Labs, consult a map, head east and follow the signs and you’ll be in Santa Fe before you know it.
Photo by Larry Lamsa
